Restaurant Reflections

Avocado Spread: Winter Greens

On a recent cold weekend in Detroit, two of the restaurants that I visited were serving avocado in all of its creamy glory. Avocado’s rich green color is a welcome sight, much like the first shoots that peek through the snow and mulch as soon as the weather turns to spring. The velvety texture of avocado is just as warming to the soul as is a drizzle of melted cheese on soup during a wintry spell. Red Dunn Kitchen plated the avocado on toasted wheat bread under piles of arugula, crowned with a poached egg. Selden Standard served creamy whipped avocado framed with beets and micro greens.

During winter, the silky consistency of an avocado boldly stands up to hearty winter flavors — which inspired my pairing of an avocado spread with roasted vegetables. In summer, chunks of avocado are a fantastic complement to the sweet tomatoes used in salsa or they can be added as a welcome layer in picnic sandwiches. Avocado contains many nutrients, and wears its superfood status rightfully all year round.

Avocado Spread

Avocado – 1, ripe

Lemon juice – ½ tbsp

Salt – ¼ tsp

Serrano chili – ½, cut finely (optional)

  • Peel the ripe avocado just before preparing the spread.
  • Remove the seed (but keep aside) and dice the flesh into big chunks.
  • Add the chunks of avocado into a food processor and process until you have a creamy spread.
  • Store the spread in a bowl. Season with salt and lemon. Add the chili for a spicy kick. Bury the seed in the spread, if keeping the mixture refrigerated. The seed prevents some of the discoloration that occurs once the avocado has been cut.

Serve immediately. Spread a thick layer on toasted bread or serve as colorful sauce-like condiment around hearty root vegetables.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Finding Cultural Cohesion in Middle East Through A Cookbook

I came late to the Jerusalem cookbook, but as always in times of crises, sometimes inspiration finds you. At the end of a week dominated by headlines, I found an eggplant recipe that spoke to the interwoven food histories that exist in the Middle East. While faiths are varied, the food provides cross-cultural links that inspire celebration and conviviality rather than division.

In ancient Levantine, Asian, and European cuisines, eggplant is simply eaten fried. When an eggplant is broiled or roasted over a flame, the charred and blackened skin can be scraped away to reveal flesh that is both moist and sweet. In many Middle Eastern recipes, the resulting flesh is pureed further to make a variety of snack (meze). Keeping some of the burnt skin in the salad mentioned below adds a smoky depth. With minor additions, the salad can be adapted for all cuisines.

Eggplant Salad

(Adapted from: Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sam Tamimi)

Eggplant – 1, cubed and baked

Tomatoes – 1, chopped and cubed

Cucumber – ½ chopped and cubed

Spring onions or shallot – 1, chopped finely

Fresh Parsley – 1½ tbsp

Lemon – juice from ½ lemon

Naan or Pita – 1

Yogurt – 2 tbsp

Salt and pepper – to taste

Hard boiled Egg – 1, sliced into half

Olive oil – ½ tbsp

Mango pickle – 1 tbsp

Zhoug – 1 tbsp (optional)

  • Mix the cooked eggplant, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice and egg.
  • Warm the naan or pita and lay it across the serving plate.
  • Spread yogurt across the pita bread. (The spread could also be hummus or tahini.)
  • Place the salad mixture over the naan or pita bread.
  • Drizzle olive oil on top.
  • Serve with mango pickle or zhoug.

Note: Zhoug is a condiment that combines fresh cilantro and parsley, green chilies, and dried aromatic spices of cardamom, cumin, and cloves. These ingredients, along with oil, sugar, salt and garlic are blended in a food processor to make a robust paste.

img_6932

Burnt Eggplant With Garlic, Lemon & Pomegranate Seeds

Eggplant – 2

Garlic cloves – 2, minced

Lemon – 1, zest and juice

Flat leaf parsley – 3 stalks, remove leaves and chop roughly

Mint leaves – 3 stalks, remove the leaves and chop roughly

Pomegranate seeds – 2 tbsp

Salt and pepper – to taste

  • Broil the eggplant under a broiler for about 1 hour, turning it every 15-20 minutes.
  • When all the sides are charred, remove and cool. The skin comes away easily. Using a fork, scrape the flesh away in a smooth top-to-bottom motion. Let the flesh drain in a colander to remove all the liquid.
  • Meanwhile, mix all of the remaining ingredients, keeping aside a few pomegranate seeds.Add these ingredients to the eggplant.
  • When ready to serve, heap the eggplant mixture onto a plate.
  • Garnish with pomegranate seeds.

img_6935

Tackling A Classic: Eggplant Parmesan

I recently bought ready-made eggplant parmesan from a small (and authentic) grocery that stocks fresh pasta made in-store by the Italian owners. The parm was delicious. There is everything to love in the two main ingredients – eggplant and cheese! Unfortunately, my new health app registered the accompanying high number of calories which forced me to attempt a healthier version of the classic.

Eggplants are notorious for absorbing unhealthy amounts of oil, and by baking eggplants, my version cuts out frying the eggplant altogether. Cutting this step also eliminates both the eggs and breadcrumbs that coat the eggplant; these add to the amount of oil absorbed, as well as to the dish’s total calories. All that was left to do was to combine good tomato sauce (thickened with celery, carrots, onions, and garlic), fresh basil, and cheese, and bake. The toasted breadcrumbs that were sprinkled in between layers added crunch, but they are not essential.

Tomato sauce

San Marzano tomatoes (28 oz) can – 2

Tomato paste – 1½ tbsp

Onion – 1 medium, sliced

Carrots – 2, diced

Celery – 1 ½ stalks, chopped

Garlic cloves – 6-8, minced

Olive oil – 1 ½ tbsp

Salt – to taste

Chili pepper flakes – 1½ tsp

Pepper – 1 tsp

  • Heat the oil in a pan.
  • Add onions to the hot oil, and sauté until translucent.
  • Add garlic and stir-fry, until light brown.
  • Add carrots, celery and cook for about five minutes or until softened.
  • Remove the mixture from heat, and mix in the food processor to a grainy texture.
  • Add the mixture back to the pan. Start to heat the pan, adding tomatoes and tomato paste to the mixture. Cook the juice down, mashing up the tomato pieces.
  • Add the salt, pepper, and chili flakes. Adjust the seasonings to taste.
  • Keep 3 cups aside, and boil it down until it is a thick liquid.
  • Freeze the rest of the sauce to use later. I often serve with meatballs, spiralized zucchini “noodles,” and grilled shrimp.

Eggplant

Eggplant – 2 medium sized, peeled and cut lengthwise into ¼-inch strips (10-12 strips in total)

Olive oil – 1 tbsp

  • Heat the oven at 400°F.
  • Place the eggplant slices on aluminum foil and brush lightly with oil.
  • Cook for about 35-40 minutes, turning slices halfway through, until just soft. Keep aside.

For The Assembly Line:

Toasted breadcrumbs or panko – ½ cup

Mozzarella cheese – 12 oz, thinly sliced

Parmesan cheese – 4 oz, freshly grated

Fresh basil leaves – 12-15 leaves

Tomato sauce – see above

Baked eggplant – see above

  • Lightly grease a loaf pan or Pyrex dish.
  • Divide the ingredients in the following order for three layers: sauce, breadcrumbs, overlapping eggplant slices, cheese (parmesan and mozzarella), and basil. Repeat, until you have formed 3 layers.
  • Bake at 350°F for 40 minutes. Set under a broiler for 5 minutes at the end for a crisp topping.
  • Once cooled, the baked eggplant parmesan will be firm. Loosen the slides by sliding a knife along the edges. Flip over on to a serving plate.

IMG_4769

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Note: Reduce the tomato sauce, so that there is no excess liquid. Otherwise, your layers will not be firm.

 

Tackling Tradition: Winter Squash

At the start of Thanksgiving week, I sampled a holiday cocktail made of sweet potato pie at The Commoner bar. The mixologist piped sweet potato pie puree into the alcohol and played around with consistency and flavor. I sampled a near-final version, as she balanced the seasonings and sprinkled crushed nuts on top. A new drink was born!

The playfulness of taking a familiar dish and giving it new life appealed to me. For example, the roasted squash from a Thanksgiving meal can only be enjoyed so many times. However, when the squash is plated on a bed of semi-liquid beet topped with crunchy toasted coconut and crushed pistachio nuts, the savory side becomes a healthy dessert. Winter squash and beets have mellow flavors, which make them both versatile and boring. Squash can be sautéed with spices, absorbing the aromatics readily, but the mild taste never quite beckons for our attention. Combining roasted squash with beets repurposes a traditional dish with texture, and has the added bonus of showcasing colors of the season.

 

.

IMG_4566

Chinese Hot Pot: Communal Food (Part 4)

It is enjoyable to have friends and family stay over for the Thanksgiving holidays. However, arranging other meals can get tiring after the frenzy of T-day cooking. Communal foods such as fondue, shabu shabu, and injera are stress-free options to feed visiting family. When friends introduced us to the Chinese hot pot last week, I realized that this is yet another communal meal that is easy to put together. There are no hard and fast rules on what to add to the broth or the type of ingredients required. Ingredients can be bought in advance, and the meal can be stretched depending on how many there are present. Your choice of hot pot ingredients becomes more diverse and interesting as more people join!

The Chinese hot pot is built around three soup bases: hot and spicy, white (fish stock), or a vegetarian option. The accompaniments can be ingredients from a regular supermarket such as mushrooms and cabbage or the more exotic lotus root, winter melon, and pre-cooked frozen fish egg balls and fish tofu from the Chinese supermarkets. Everyone can be involved with the meal — whether slicing meats and vegetables or preparing simple dipping sauces.

IMG_4534

For the Hot And Spicy Broth:

  • Boil a large pan filled water.
  • Add 2-3 bouillon cubes of fish, vegetable, or meat stock.
  • Add daikon (radish), mushrooms, garlic and ginger slivers to build up the broth flavors. Season with cinnamon, anise, and dried red chilies, and bring the broth to a boil.
  • Season with salt and pepper. Add a tablespoon of sesame oil.
  • Once thickened and flavorful, the broth is ready. Keep the broth simmering to dip the uncooked accompaniments.
  • Alternatively, follow the directions of a ready-made hot pot mix available from Chinese supermarkets.

Suggested Accompaniments:

Lettuce

Bok Choy

Chrysanthemum Leaves

Yam

Taro

Sirloin or Flank Beef

Lamb

Shrimp

White Fish Fillet

Sliced Squid

Tofu cubes

Slice all the chosen ingredients into thin strips or small chunks. Keep raw meats and fish on separate plates.

Dipping Sauce:

Mix together light soy sauce (2-3 tbsp), sesame oil (1 tsp), fresh ginger slices (3-4 slivers), and scallions (2, chopped). Season to taste.

When Ready to Serve:

  • Present everyone with plates, chopsticks, and a bowl of dipping sauce.
  • Place all the sliced accompaniments within easy access.
  • Keep the broth simmering: You can use an electric heating plate or have everyone gather around the stove.
  • Use slotted spoons, small strainers, or chopsticks to dip the uncooked ingredients into the broth.
  • Cook vegetables such as lotus root and taro (3-4 minutes), until soft; meat (1-2 minutes) until cooked through; and tofu and mushrooms (30 seconds), until just warm.

 

IMG_4539

Have a Happy Thanksgiving, and a restful weekend filled with communal meals!

 

 

Onion Rings And Fritters: The Batter Matters

Whenever I am out of town, as I was last week visiting A. and N., I tend to gravitate to foods that I find difficult to make at home. This time around, I picked onion rings as a side dish with my fancy burger. The much-anticipated meal was a disappointment; the onion rings were crisp, but the coating mixture was tasteless. The ideal onion ring has onions with a silky-smooth crunch and a flavorful covering. The pressure to create perfectly golden and crisp rings hardly mattered, as I realized it was all about the batter.

The batter could be made with chickpea flour (besan) and a host of spices as in the Indian version of onion rings (pakora) or tempura, panko crumbs, or flour mixed with milk, buttermilk or beer. Homemade pakora, when I was growing up, was made without a deep fryer or a thermometer to measure the ideal oil temperature of 350-360ºF needed for crisp rings. Not having the right equipment or the grease factor became distant concerns, and flavor won the day.

How To Check If Oil Is Hot Without A Fryer Thermometer:

  • When hot, the oil on the surface has a shimmer and movement.
  • When holding your palm about six-inches above the hot oil, the heat should be felt on your hand.
  • Drop a small amount of batter into the hot oil, and the batter should fluff up or puff up and come sizzling up to the surface. If it is a pale brown, the temperature is perfect to start frying. If brown, remove the pan from the heat and allow it to cool before checking again.
  • The exposed surface area of the pan or wok should be small to keep the heat from dissipating.

Pakora

Onion – 1

Chickpea flour (besan) – 1 cup

Bicarbonate of soda – ¼ tsp

Turmeric powder – ¼ tsp

Chili powder – 1½ tsp

Garam masala – 1 tsp

Salt – 1-1½ tsp

Water – ½ cup

Vegetable oil – ½ -1 cup

  • Mix all the dry ingredients together.
  • Add the water to make a thick batter.
  • Peel and cut both ends off the onion. Slice in ¼-inch thick rings. Add the sliced onions and mix into the batter.
  • Keep aside for 10-12 minutes.
  • Heat the oil in a small wok or deep frying pan.
  • Add a tablespoon of the onion batter to the hot oil. The batter should puff up immediately and start to turn a golden brown. Flip the onion ring over and fry the other side for a few seconds. Don’t overcrowd the wok. Keep rings separate.
  • Remove and drain on a rack to prevent steam from making the rings soft.
  • Serve immediately.

 

IMG_4321 IMG_4330

 

 

Cashew Nuts: Cream, Butter, and Purée

I always stock a bag of raw unsalted cashew nuts for a spur-of-the-moment snack, toasting the nuts with spicy chaat masala or with a generous pinch of rock salt and fresh pepper. Cashew nuts provide the crunch in Asian cuisines’ sautéed dishes. The cashew nuts are processed into a paste that can be used to thicken a curry. This mildly-sweet nut’s versatility has been overlooked until recently in the West.

I have now noticed that restaurants are incorporating cashew nut paste as a ribbon-like swirl around braised meat. The combination of starch and unsaturated fats (the healthy kind) in the cashew nut purée gives the paste a creamy consistency akin to mashed potatoes. A dash of the cashew nut paste on a plate of roasted chicken or grilled ribs serves as both a side dish and as a decorative flourish.

There are several ways to incorporate cashew nut paste into any cooking style, especially because cashew nut is lactose- and gluten-free. The cashew nut paste has a richly-satisfying buttery flavor and a spreadable texture, and can be substituted for peanut butter for those with peanut allergies.The paste can also be diluted with water to create a cream-like consistency and substituted for cream and yogurt to thicken sauces or even diluted further and drunk as cashew milk.

Sold pre-shelled, economy-sized packets of raw cashew nuts are available in South American and Asian supermarkets.

Cashew Nut Paste

Cashew nuts (raw) – 1 cup

  • Cover the cashew nuts with water and soak them overnight.
  • Drain in a colander.
  • Process the softened nuts in a food processor or blender to get a fine paste. Keep the paste as granular (spreadable cashew butter) or smooth to mix with fresh water (cashew cream or milk).
  • The paste can be frozen for up to 2 months in an airtight container.

IMG_3157 IMG_3158